Kuala lumpur: While often celebrated for its rich flavours, traditional Malay cuisine-especially village-style recipes passed down through generations-also carries notable health benefits, a fact many have overlooked or forgotten. Prepared with fresh ingredients like onions, turmeric, ginger, and galangal, traditional Malay dishes are known for their distinctive aroma that whets the appetite. They are typically served with ulam (raw herbs) and a variety of sambal.
According to BERNAMA News Agency, these dishes are often seen as labour-intensive and are now rarely served at home, especially with the growing popularity of instant seasoning products that many homemakers use to save time. This shift risks the gradual loss of these treasured, time-honoured recipes. To preserve this culinary heritage, Restoran Dulang Tok Wan, located in Kuala Lumpur, is leading the way in promoting authentic traditional Malay cuisine.
According to its owner, S Zuraida Said, every dish is prepared using only fresh ingredients, with no shortcuts, to retain its original flavour and nutritional value. After gaining traction on social media, the restaurant-which opened in February last year-caught the writer’s attention, leading to a visit and a meeting with Zuraida, 64.
Zuraida, who prefers to be called Cik Da, brings over 55 years of kitchen experience, having started helping her father in their restaurant at just nine years old. She shared insights into the health-conscious cooking methods of past villagers, who used available vegetables and herbs to promote well-being. For instance, she explained how stir-fried young papaya was once used to prevent constipation, often eaten with salted fish and hot rice.
Cik Da highlighted the health benefits of certain traditional dishes, such as crab cooked in coconut milk with pineapple core, believed to reduce gout and joint pain. Snails prepared in coconut milk, when combined with sweet potatoes and pucuk manis (sweet leaf shoots), offer digestive benefits and help eliminate fine sand particles found in snails.
The main difference between modern and traditional Malay dishes, according to Cik Da, lies in the choice of ingredients. Many people today prefer shortcuts, avoiding the preparation of spices from scratch, which results in a loss of authentic taste. This change means that many, especially the younger generation, have never truly tasted real traditional Malay cooking.
According to Cik Da, every dish at Dulang Tok Wan reflects the heritage and identity passed down through generations. Born in Tasek Gelugor, Penang, and raised in Gerik, Perak, Cik Da grew up in a traditional village setting, learning kitchen customs, culinary wisdom, and strict hygiene practices from her late father’s kitchen.
Among the royal dishes served at her restaurant are Talam Diraja, Nasi Lamuni, Rendang Rusa (venison rendang), mutton curry, grilled chicken, pulut kuning (yellow glutinous rice), and sambal hijau daun kari (spicy green chili paste infused with curry leaves). Cik Da is generous with her knowledge, sharing tips such as adding mashed pumpkin to prawns in coconut milk to enhance richness and preserve sweetness.
To ensure the nutritional quality of the menu, Dulang Tok Wan is overseen by a medical doctor-Ahmad Faisal Ahmad Nazri, the youngest of Cik Da’s four children. He ensures that every dish is nutritious, made with high-quality ingredients, and adheres to strict standards of cleanliness and halal compliance.
Cik Da aims to preserve the legacy of authentic Malay cooking by compiling her inherited recipes into a book and aspires to franchise Dulang Tok Wan to promote traditional Malay cuisine on a wider scale and empower local entrepreneurs.
From the moment one enters the restaurant, the tantalising aroma of freshly cooked food fills the air, stirring the senses and building anticipation. The nostalgic journey back to the era of traditional kitchens is enhanced by dishes served on vintage-style floral ceramic plates and bowls, reminiscent of grandmothers’ homes, offering diners a deeply satisfying, authentic experience.