Singapore: Grilled fish on a generous bed of numbing chillis and peppercorns from Chongqing in China’s south-west; cumin-laced lamb skewers from Xinjiang in the far north; fiery rice noodles flavoured with snails from Guangxi in the south—all of this can be found on a walk down Liang Seah Street in Singapore. Chinese food is experiencing a moment of global appreciation, driven by immense success and intense competition back home. Nowhere is this more evident than in Singapore, where ethnically Chinese people make up more than three-quarters of the multicultural population.
According to BBC, Luckin, China’s response to Starbucks, marked its first international venture by opening a store in Singapore in March 2023. Fast forward two years, and the company boasts over 60 outlets in the city-state. The expansion has not stopped there; last month, Luckin made its U.S. debut with two stores in New York. Alongside Luckin, four other major Chinese brands have doubled their presence in Singapore to a total of 124 outlets since 2023. These brands are visible everywhere, with bright adverts of chilli-laced dishes and Chinese idioms displayed in malls, buses, and subway stations.
Singapore serves as a strategic launchpad for these brands, acting as a ‘proof of concept’ for later global expansion, as noted by historian Thomas DuBois. The city is a melting pot of cultures, making it an ideal testing ground for diverse palates. Additionally, Singapore is a travel hub where eating is almost a national pastime. This culinary wave aims to showcase the vast diversity of Chinese cuisine, moving beyond the stereotypical dumplings and hot pot.
Many visitors to Singapore are ethnic Chinese from various parts of Asia, carrying with them a sophisticated understanding of Chinese cuisine. Claire Wang, marketing manager for Nong Geng Ji, a Hunan-based chain known for its spicy dishes, highlights the unique flavors of Hunan’s cuisine, which differ significantly from other regions in China. Since its successful launch in Singapore, Nong Geng Ji has expanded to Malaysia, Canada, and is eyeing further opportunities in Thailand, Japan, South Korea, and the U.S.
The global palate seems ready for ‘proper Chinese food,’ a trend that challenges outdated Western perceptions of Chinese cuisine. In her book, “Invitation to a Banquet,” British food writer Fuchsia Dunlop discusses how basic, oversimplified dishes in the West have historically clouded the appreciation for the diversity of Chinese gastronomic culture. The new wave of Chinese restaurants seeks to correct these misconceptions, offering menus that include traditional dishes like steamed buns, preserved vegetables, and delicately-flavoured seafood.
Thomas Tao, vice-president of the Green Tea Restaurant chain, recalls a time when Chinese fine dining was rare in New York. Now, his chain—known for serving fresh seafood and savoury soups from Zhejiang—is set to open its first outpost in Singapore. The restaurant promises an immersive experience, complete with guzheng music and boat-shaped tables surrounded by West Lake-inspired landscapes.
The expansion of Chinese restaurants is not just about food; it also represents a form of soft power. As Felix Ren, director of Singapore-based food consultancy WeMedia, notes, Chinese culinary culture serves as a powerful diplomatic tool. Ren draws parallels to the table tennis matches that helped ease tensions between Beijing and Washington in the 1970s, suggesting that “Chinese cuisine may just be the new ping-pong diplomacy.”